The Pearl Mist

I awoke to foghorns bellowing. Sitting up in bed, I tried to figure out what was all the ruckus about? The island was still there. I could even see the fickle finger. There was a lot of haze about, but visibility was still pretty good. Maybe it was just a wakeup call? Shortly afterwards, the Pearl Mist came into view. The Pearl is inaugurating her line and is the third cruise line to operate on the great lakes this far north. After it passed the cabin, heading down, we followed it into town and caught it while it was in the locks. Its claim is that every room has a balcony.
Returning from town, we had lunch and then since it was getting warm out, I decided to take a bath, in the lake. This year’s inaugural swim. The water was, how should we say, brisk. Yesterday, this week’s heat dome had chased us out of the Dells and as far north as Manistique, where we stopped for dinner. Even if it gets hot here, there is a large body of water just outside.
Cabin Electrical Storm
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In the Dells
In the Dales…Hillandale, Rosedale, Clydesdale, Mondale, and Sarah Teasdale
Yesterday, after lunch at Taliesin we headed north to the Dells, a series of rock and water formations on the Wisconsin River. It is also a huge tourist destination. We stayed at a Holiday Inn Express (Sleep faster, dammit!), but it was so much more than a normal motel. It wasn’t a waterpark, but it did sport three pools. This morning, we headed to our third planned activity of this mini vacation. Driving along the main drag, we got a glimpse of some of the waterpark’s attractions: the Roman Coliseum, the Trojan Horse and Noah’s Ark. Then we encountered an early morning three vehicle accident. No one appeared to be injured, but every airbag aboard had been deployed. Some people were not going to have a good day. Our planned activity was a boat tour of the Upper Dells. In particular the pictured Witches Gulch. This slot canyon or gorge was totally worth the price of admission, it was gorgeous! It is late now. I’ll save description of today’s boatload of Amish, Archie the wonder dog and our drive to the cabin for later.
I wouldn’t hire you for a chicken coop
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Taliesin

Today was a lot more laid back than yesterday was. First off, we did not have to drive six hours. Today’s featured facility came with a guided tour, and its environment was generally more relaxed than that of House on the Rock. We had to travel only a few miles down the road from House on the Rock to see Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin. He named his home Taliesin to honor his Welsh roots, translated it means furrowed brow and trumpets his belief that a building should not be built atop a hill, but on its forehead. He lived and worked on this property for fifty years, until his death in 1959. It burned twice and when he wasn’t rebuilding it from fire, he was changing it to meet his current needs, which were constantly evolving.
Dale our guide led us 24 tour members for four hours through many of the buildings that are the Taliesin complex, because that is how many seats were on the bus. After four hours, our tour ended at the brow of the hill. The site is under constant restoration. The current hot project is Wright’s bedroom, which is in danger of sliding off the hill. He began working on Taliesin at the beginning of the 20th-century, but the restoration’s goal is what it looked like in 1959. From a preservation point of view, you have to pick a specific date, because the place was always changing. I mentioned yesterday that Wright insulted his neighbor Alex Jordan, by telling him that he would not trust Jordan to build a chicken coup. I saw his chicken coups after they had been repurposed into cabins for his students. Wright might have had a point.
Taliesin is where he designed most of his signature works, from the Guggenheim Museum to Falling Water. One story that we were told was about Falling Water. Nine months after receiving this commission, Wright got a surprise phone call from the client. The client was in Madison and was about to board a train to come visit Wright and review his design. The train ride was two-and-a-half hours. Wright had not put anything on paper. Once off the phone, he summoned all of his students and instructed them to keep feeding him sharpened pencils. Drafting like crazy, strictly from memory, he had the design ready to present when his client stepped off the train.



