2013 Soulard Mardi Gras Parade


I bicycled down to the river today, for this year’s Soulard Mardi Gras Parade. You have to be specific about these parades, because there are three Mardi Gras parades in Saint Louis. Last weekend hosted the dog parade in Soulard; imagine costumed pups threading the crowd in the narrow streets of this early 19th century neighborhood. This Tuesday, the actual Fat Tuesday, will host a Mardi Gras parade downtown, but today’s parade is the main event, second only to New Orleans, in these United States.

Normally, we do Mardi Gras with Gary and Linda, members of Team Kaldis. They live in Soulard and generally throw a terrific party on this Saturday. Gary has this parade down to a science, what with portable scaffolding that he can set up at the last minute, giant hand shaped rakes to snag the lofted strings of beads and several hundred Jell-O shots. Everything goes better with Jell-O. This year, they wanted to take a year off from their hosting duties and get out and see what their neighbor’s are up to for a change. I hope that they’re back to form next year.

So, since I didn’t have to brave the crowd in Soulard, I decided to watch the parade closer to downtown, closer to its origin. At Broadway and Chouteau the crowd wasn’t as thick, drunk, crude or lewd, as in Soulard proper. This parade is different from any of the myriad other parades that occur every year in town. Saint Louis sure does love its parades. This parade has a pretty stiff entry fee, $300 for a walking Krewe and $500 for a Krewe with a float. The word “Krewe” is a generic term used to describe any carnival organization or club. The word was coined by the oldest such organization in New Orleans, the Mystik Krewe of Comus who believed in 1857 that the word gave the club’s name an “olde-English” flavor.

There are three Krewe types in this parade: the corporate Krewe, the civic organization Krewe and the real Krewe. You can always tell a real Krewe from any of the others, because they are not trying to sell you anything. A real Krewe always has an interesting name, like the following examples illustrate:

  • Weekend Society for the Prevention of Sobriety
  • Bodacious Bead Blasters
  • Grand Sultans of Excess
  • Krewe of the Creatively Confused

My favorite Krewe was the Krewe of the Mystic Knights of the Purple Haze. Their float was Aquaman’s Justice League Mardi Gras Party. The red starfish, the last photo, is part of their Krewe. Maybe, I’ll revisit this Krewe on Tuesday, because just one picture of one member does not do this Krewe justice. They had a float to die for. Plus, they won first place. The Banana Bike Brigade, pictured first, took second place with their Finding Nemo theme. Having super-storm Nemo occurring on the same weekend, probably didn’t hurt their chances any. They are an example of a “walking” Krewe, because they had no float.

Beads, Beer and Boobs

Maybe nineteen years ago, Saturday’s weather would have really put a crimp in the party, but Soulard’s Mardi Gras has grown well beyond that now. Saturday had temperatures in the thirties, plus a wicked north wind. The parade used to wind its way through Soulard’s narrow neighborhood streets, but now just marches down wide Broadway. I don’t think that any city loves a parade as much as Saint Louis does and the Mardi Gras parade is one of the favorites.

To view the parade, Gary had a pair of folding ladders between which he laid a plank. This allowed us to wait until the last-minute inside their warm home, rush out the half black to Broadway and still get a great view over the intervening heads. The parade is really all about beads, shiny multicolored beads. There are only a few floats in the parade, the pictured Jaws one being an exception and not a single school sends a marching band. What passes as floats in this parade are really just flatbed tractor trailers. Typically, the krewe manning the float erects a grandstand for their members on top of the flatbed. These rolling constructions and their strolling attendants are really just mechanisms for the purveying of beads. Thousands of beads are tossed during the parade, enough to choke an able bead grabber, or at least risk neck injury once fully donned.

So we’ve talked about beads enough, now about the beer and boobs. A fair amount of drinking is involved with Mardi Gras and as an event it has many adult themes. We first discovered this many years ago, when we took our still young boys to a Mardi Gras parade. We were still relatively new to Saint Louis then and naively expected the Mardi Gras parade to be just like all of the other ones in town, good family fun. We were wrong. We quickly realized this. We held up for a while, at the foot of the reviewing stand and mainly because that is where all of the cops had congregated. We beat a hasty retreat that year, but not before the boys were exposed to an educational experience.

Back then there was a steady trade between beads and boobs. The crowd would yell beads to the passing krewes, who in turn would yell boobs, as in show us your boobs and we’ll throw you our beads. That worked then, but since then beads have become way too ubiquitous to support such a market. Enter the new coin of the realm, Jell-O-shots. They are actually easier to toss than beads, or so I have observed. I have also observed that business is bullish.

Saturday featured the Soulard Mardi Gras parade. Soulard’s Mardi Gras celebration purports to be the second largest in the county, second only to New Orleans’. Biking buddies and Kaldi’s team members, Gary and Linda threw their 19th annual Mardi Gras party. Friday night’s rain lingered long enough into the morning to dissuade us from cycling to the parade and their party. We drove as close as we could get a parking place and walked the last mile and a half.

Soulard is Saint Louis’ French quarter. Nestled close to the Mississippi and lying in the shadow of the brewery, Soulard is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Saint Louis. Most of its old row houses were gutted and then completely rehabbed, starting in the eighties. Gary and Linda’s home is one such house.