Hiking & Bears & Bison, Oh my!

On our last day in Yellowstone and our last day together with Jay, Carl and Ashlan, we decided to get away from the maddening crowds. But first we had to navigate the ever present animal jams. We drove north to Mammoth Springs, but avoided the main attraction and instead headed for the trailhead, for our little five-mile hike to beaver ponds and back.

The trailhead was conveniently placed next to the bathrooms, so we watered our horses and then headed out on the trail. The hike began with a climb out of the parking lot into the heights above. We saw a deer, a prairie dog, some coots and a crazy sparrow who danced in front of us along the trail for a while. I think that it was leading us away from its nest. Halfway through the hike we arrived at the beaver ponds which were in fact just dammed rivers, but that is what beavers do. While we stayed together on the way out bound, we got strung out on the return leg. The combination of heat (87 degrees, but it was still a dry heat), flies and photography had us spaced out over a quarter mile when we descended upon Fort Yellowstone. We re-watered the horses at the visitors center and I hike the extra quarter mile back to the SUV. We had our picnic lunch next to the visitors center.

After lunch we jumped back into the vehicle and headed east towards the Lamar Valley. The Lamar Valley is suppose to be the best part of Yellowstone for seeing wildlife. True to its reputation, it was the primo part of the park to find wildlife. Where as, we saw dozens of buffalo on Friday in the Hayden Valley, in the Lamar Valley we saw hundreds. We also found our own personal bear. We didn’t happen upon a bear-icade, we created our own. Unfortunately, the Lamar Valley is as far from West Yellowstone as you can nearly get in the park. So we didn’t get to spend too much time in it before we had to start back. If we had only one more day …

Roaming Buffalo & Geezer Geysers

We all piled into the Prius on Friday morning and headed into Yellowstone Park. We drove the southern loop. Our stops included the Artist’s Paint Pots, the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, picnic lunch on the Yellowstone and another visit to Old Faithful. It was nice not doing the driving, Jay and Ashlan did the honors.

We saw dozens of buffalo and dozens of geothermal features. We also saw a few elk, but no bears. I got rained on by a geyser, but not as bad as the other tourist during Old Faithful’s second spout. We were inside the inn having ice cream at the time.

Anne and Jay both wore matching t-shirts that said, “I can’t remember if I’m the good Sister or the evil one.” They both got lots of comments by passersby. Jay occasionally announced that she was the good sister, which really isn’t what a good sister would say.

Yellowstone Day 3, Cavalry Arrives

Thursday turned into a geology day for us is Yellowstone. In fact at our final stop for the day, at the Grand Prismatic Spring, a visiting group of geologist were in attendance. The lecturing park ranger was all over one of them as we were walking into the Midway Geyser Basin. I had to bite my tongue not to yell out, “Is there a geologist in the house?”, as if their was some emergency of tectonic importance. 😉

We spent most of the day visiting the smaller geyser basins north of the Old Faithful basin. We probably walked five miles, so much for taking a rest day, on the day before Jay and Company arrived. Most of the geological features are not as impressive as those at the Old Faithful basin, but some are and none of them come with screaming kids, rude adults or anything in-between. I got another tourist to take our picture at the Spasm Geyser.

In 1988 the park was burnt in a summer of forest fires that consumed large portions of the park’s forest of lodge pole pines. Twenty-two years later you can still see signs of the fire. Burnt tree trunk poles still rise above the new growth. The new growth has risen to between ten and twenty feet in height. The new pines are growing as close together as corn stalks in an Illinois cornfield. The difference between the Illinois cornfields and Yellowstone’s new crop of lodge pole pines is that in Illinois there are farmers planting that crop. In Yellowstone most if not all of the new pines are naturally seeded. Go figure, a specie that evolved to live in Yellowstone, where wildfire is part of the ecology, would come back so strong after a wildfire.

On the way out of the park we ran into another bear-acaide. This time it was caused by a grizzly bear. It was across a river and we never left the SUV, so we were pretty safe. Anne‘s not totally sure that it is a grizzly, but I think it is and I’m writing this post.

We knocked off three hours early, in order to meet up with Jay, Carl and Ashlan, the cavalry.  We had our best diner yet in West Yellowstone.  It still involved a lot of read meat and sides.

Yellowstone II

Wednesday was our second day at Yellowstone and our fifth day on vacation. I think that all of the fun, sun, altitude and exercise is beginning to show its wear on us. We slept in, a little, but still got on the road close to our usual launch time. Unfortunately, we ran head-on, smack, into West Yellowstone rush hour. “We have an elk pile-up at the West Yellowstone approach.” This elk borne traffic jam was just the first of many and I can say now with some sanguine and a glass of wine, it is all part of the Yellowstone experience. In addition to elk, there were also buffalo jams, but the worst and also the best were the bear-icades. In variably after one of these animal, no tourist, generated jams occurred, one or more park rangers would descend upon it and proceed to break it up. “Move along Sir, there is nothing to see here.” “But there is a bear there, I see it.” “Move along, Sir!”

After several traffic jams, we arrived at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. In addition to Tuesday’s stop at Old Faithful, this is one of the must see sights of the park. We hiked the south rim of the canyon, but we saved Uncle Tom’s trail for Jay and company. Looking at all the yellow colored rock in this canyon, it is easy to see how this park got its name.

We circled the north loop on Wednesday, which is only seventy miles, but it easily took all afternoon. You generally only move between 30-40 MPH. The park’s speed limit is 45 MPH. The main “problem” is that you are driving through all of this spectacular scenery. There is always some pull-off that you just have to take and many of the features are just too big to be appreciated with just one stop.

Memorable moments include:

  • Seeing a bear go over the mountain, to see what it could see.
  • At 9,000’, in the heart of alpine country, I spied a flower. It was small and white, clear and bright, but the name escapes me.
  • Being able to fart in Mammoth Springs and have no one complained.

Dragon Dictation

Sam suggested I use Dragon Dictation instead of trying to type it in to the iPhone so this is the first test.

Anne and I are sitting at a coffee shop waiting for our breakfast to be served.

I’m playing with my iPhone and Anne is playing with hers. We will be heading into the Yellowstone afterwards. So while I have a connection I’ll make a post.

It is not very consequential, but it’s a good test of this app.

Yellowstone

This is my first iPhone post, so it will be short and hopefully sweet. Something about trying to type on a postage stamp.

I’m typing this in our motel room that doesn’t have wifi, in West Yellowstone, MT.

We left Driggs, IA, climbed Teton Pass (4th time), passed through Jackson and entered Grand Teton Park. We stopped at Jackson Lodge, very hoity-toity. We saw two dozen elk and four new birds.

Later we stopped at Colter Bay. We had our picnic lunch and were serenaded by a string quartet. Then we visited the American Indian Museum there.

On to Yellowstone and Old Faithful …

Saw lots of geysers, got an eyeful from one, just mist, but it stung. Saw a buffalo. I got closer than Anne would have liked, but there were bigger idiots between me and it. It blocked the trail, so we had to backtrack and take a different trail back to the car.

Those are the highlights, more to follow.