Man’s Jacket (Doublet),

1590-1600

silk lampas with gold and silver, leather, silk, and brass

This close-fitting man’s jacket, or doublet, derived from the padded jackets worn under armor. The plunging peasecod belly and trimmed flaps called piccadills bordering the waist and armholes mimic the features of contemporary breastplates.

Braided silver wire wound around silk thread forms the trim, which accentuates the contour of the torso while also concealing the seams. This stylish garment is made of silk fabric woven with intersecting scrolls punctuated with pomegranates in raised loops of gold- and silver-wrapped threads.